The round brilliant cut diamond is the most popular diamond shape, because if it has been cut properly it will tend to have more sparkle when observed by a human eye. A round diamond will give you a nice balance between its clarity, color, and cut while still producing a top notch fire and brilliance.
Princess cut is the most popular non-round shape. Princess cuts are square in shape and have pointed corners. They offer a unique look and a brilliance that will blow you away. When purchasing a princess cut make sure the length to width ratio is close to each other if going for a perfect square look.
Emerald cut offers rectangular facets, which create a unique optical appearance. They often have large see-through tables thus they highlight the clarity of a diamond more than other diamond shapes.
Cushion shapes have rounded corners and are “pillow-looking”. They are often referred to as a “pillow cut”. They are very elegant, modern, and youthful.
A Radiant cut is rectangular in shape and has cut corners thus they are often called “Cut-Cornered Rectangular Modified Brilliant”. They offer the shine and brilliance of a princess cut while having longer table surface area.
Like all fancy cut diamonds, the pear diamond comes in a variety of proportions, however the preferred length-to-width ratio should range between 1.50-1.75:1.
Examine the point for inclusions and color concentration. The wings on each side of the point should be symmetrical. The rounded end should appear like a semi-circle. As with the oval and marquise, the pear brilliant may show a “bow tie.” If a prong setting is chosen, it should include a V-shaped prong at the point because that will help protect it from damage.
Ovals have the added benefit of appearing larger because of their elongated shape. When selecting an oval diamond, look for even, well-rounded shoulders. Your personal preference will likely decide which width of oval is more appealing, however the optimal length-to-width ratio is 1.33-1.66:1.
Ovals cut in the brilliant style display a brightness similar to round brilliant cut diamonds. Oval brilliant cut diamonds often display a “bow-tie.” Seen with the naked eye, this is a dark area which looks like two triangular pieces joined in the center of the stone. When the diamond is viewed face-up, you want the “bow-tie” to be minimized as much as possible.
Asscher cuts are nearly identical to the emerald-cut except theY tend to be square in look and have cut corners. They offer square facets that create a unique vintage look while staying classy and elegant.
Symmetry is an important factor for all fancy cut diamonds. Even the smallest difference can create an appearance that is not balanced. Check that each half is a mirror image of the other, and for marquises that the two points align. Like oval, this shape pairs well with other gem shapes in multi-stone rings, and if a prong mounting is chosen, V-shaped prongs will help protect the points.If a marquise shape is too long, it could impact its durability. Look for a length-to-width ratio of 1.75-2.25:1.Like the oval, the marquise diamond that is cut in the brilliant style should be examined for a “bow-tie” effect, and the points of the marquise should be examined for inclusions.
An obvious symbol of love and romance, the heart-shaped diamond should have two identical halves, and the cleft should be distinct. The wings and lobes need to be even with the lobes curving down the cleft.The ideal length-to-width ratio is approximately 1.00:1. Check the point for any visible inclusions. As with the oval, marquise and pear, the heart shape may show a “bow tie.”
It may be difficult to perceive the heart in a diamond of less than .50 carats. For smaller size stones, a bezel or three-prong setting better preserves the shape.
You’ll often encounter triangular-shaped diamonds cut in the brilliant style, referred to by jewelers as trillion or trilliant. While this shape is sometimes set as a solitaire, it’s more commonly used as side stones in a multi-stone setting.Attention should be paid to clarity, since even small inclusions may be more visible in this shallow shape.
The preferred length-to-width ration is 1:00:1. A protective prong setting is recommended to keep the sharp points from chipping.